DeWalt Handdrill: verschil tussen versies

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Regel 1: Regel 1:
[[Category:SafetySheet]][[Category:Tool]][[Category:Wood]][[Category:Metal]]{{SafetyCat6}}{{NoiseCat2}}[[Category:OnLoan]]
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[[Category:Tool]][[Category:Wood]][[Category:Metal]]{{SafetyCat6}}{{NoiseCat2}}
 
[[Bestand:dewalts.jpg|miniatuur]]
 
[[Bestand:dewalts.jpg|miniatuur]]
  
To drill holes. NOT to screw in screws. For that use the [[DeWalt Impact drill/electric screwdriver]].
+
To drill holes.
 +
 
 +
The drill has a clutch, so can be used to drive in screws if you must. But you probably want to use the [[DeWalt Impact drill/electric screwdriver]] - it is designed for this and gives you more control.
 +
 
 +
If you do want to use the drill - then make sure that you
 +
 
 +
# set the torque limiter to some sensible value (certainly not on 'drill'!)
 +
# you apply enough pressure on the screw to keep it from stripping.
 +
# Also make sure you apply the pressure straight (i.e. not through the handle - but on the back) - that helps a lot.
 +
 
 +
However - if you need to apply a lot of pressure - then use the [[DeWalt Impact drill/electric screwdriver]] -- as you end up ruining the drill if you do not. Seriously. You ruin it & a new head is about 60 Euro's. And after the second head or so - the machine is total loss.
 +
 
 +
We currently have two:
 +
 
 +
# One in the wood section - which has a slightly wobbly head due to it being used for screws.
 +
# One in the cupboard in the metal section - which is bought especially to keep in a good state - and it should ONLY be used for drilling.
 +
# One that is lost - report if you find it !
  
 
= Location =
 
= Location =
Regel 8: Regel 24:
 
Woodworkshop - in a holder on the wall near the workbench left.
 
Woodworkshop - in a holder on the wall near the workbench left.
  
= Owner =
+
Metwalworkshop - in the cupboard - not to be uses for anything but drilling. No screwing. This keeps it in a state suitable for things like small holes & tapping.
 +
 
 +
= Disassembling the keyless chuck =
 +
 
 +
If someone was pigheaded enough to use the drill as a screwdriver (rather than its rather excelent and specially made for this tool the [[DeWalt Impact drill/electric screwdriver]] -- you will end up with a stuck keyless chuck at some point.
 +
 
 +
In that case you need to replace it. This is done by
 +
 
 +
# Open the head all the way (seriously - all the way -- it is a very tight fit for the bold to come out; and if you unscrew the bolt while the head is in the way - something plastic snaps inside.
 +
# Insert a torx 15 bit into the head and unscrew it '''CLOCKWISE''' -- i.e. it is a left-handed, reverse tread '''just one half-turn'''. No tapping/hammering - pure gentle static pressure. A small bit of heat may be needed.
 +
# Before going any further - check that it clears the things inside the side; otherwise open the head further.
 +
# It should now come out very easily; with no friction. If you feel friction - go back to the previous point and check again.
 +
# Once the bolt is out - put the largest, long imbus/hex key  into the head and tighen it.
 +
# Then unscrew the head counter-clockwise (i.e. normal direction). This may take a small tap by a rubber/nylon mallet - it is kinetic energy you are trying to transfer (as opposed to static pressure you used for the torx 15.).
 +
 
 +
You can now either replace the head or take it apart from the back and re-align/de-burr the claws.
 +
 
 +
NOTE: The Torx is a TX15; not a TTX15 (with the hole). For strength reasons you may want to use the right one - though know that if you are applying more than 5 N-meter - you are probably overdoing/damaging something.
 +
 
 +
== Parts ==
 +
 
 +
# Special bolt: N092854 (around 10 euro, excluding shipping)
 +
# Keyless chuck: N485661 (1~13mm drill chuck electric chuck quick-release chuck) (around 50-60 euro including shipping)
 +
 
 +
Actual tread is an inside, right-handed, 1/2-20UNF in the chuck. So the drill has an axis sticking out that is crewed into the chuck.
 +
 
 +
The special bolts are 1/4-28UNF, left-handed and of a very high/odd grade (i.e. above 12.9). With a taper in the head: https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B0CH1MXXV9
 +
 
 +
= History =
  
Bought by te space a long time ago.
+
# Set 1 bought by the space mid 2015
 +
# Head replaced december 2018
 +
# 1 new and 4 second-hand extra heads donated (dirkx)
 +
# Replacement drill bought
 +
# Head replaced 19 June 2020
 +
# Set 2 bought by the space mid 2020
 +
# Head replaced on the old drill 18/2/2021
 +
# New head ordered Nov 2023, middle drill currently missing, last donated head fitted to machine
 +
# Both heads replaced by higher end type; bolts replaced; one spare bolt in cabinet (27/11/2023)

Huidige versie van 27 nov 2023 om 20:23

This equipment is safety category 6: Other equipment with no limits.

This equipment is Noise Category 2:
Can be used at all hours, but in moderation.
Be considerate; if you feel you need to wear ear protection,
then only use the tool between 07:00 and 19:00.

Dewalts.jpg

To drill holes.

The drill has a clutch, so can be used to drive in screws if you must. But you probably want to use the DeWalt Impact drill/electric screwdriver - it is designed for this and gives you more control.

If you do want to use the drill - then make sure that you

  1. set the torque limiter to some sensible value (certainly not on 'drill'!)
  2. you apply enough pressure on the screw to keep it from stripping.
  3. Also make sure you apply the pressure straight (i.e. not through the handle - but on the back) - that helps a lot.

However - if you need to apply a lot of pressure - then use the DeWalt Impact drill/electric screwdriver -- as you end up ruining the drill if you do not. Seriously. You ruin it & a new head is about 60 Euro's. And after the second head or so - the machine is total loss.

We currently have two:

  1. One in the wood section - which has a slightly wobbly head due to it being used for screws.
  2. One in the cupboard in the metal section - which is bought especially to keep in a good state - and it should ONLY be used for drilling.
  3. One that is lost - report if you find it !

Location

Woodworkshop - in a holder on the wall near the workbench left.

Metwalworkshop - in the cupboard - not to be uses for anything but drilling. No screwing. This keeps it in a state suitable for things like small holes & tapping.

Disassembling the keyless chuck

If someone was pigheaded enough to use the drill as a screwdriver (rather than its rather excelent and specially made for this tool the DeWalt Impact drill/electric screwdriver -- you will end up with a stuck keyless chuck at some point.

In that case you need to replace it. This is done by

  1. Open the head all the way (seriously - all the way -- it is a very tight fit for the bold to come out; and if you unscrew the bolt while the head is in the way - something plastic snaps inside.
  2. Insert a torx 15 bit into the head and unscrew it CLOCKWISE -- i.e. it is a left-handed, reverse tread just one half-turn. No tapping/hammering - pure gentle static pressure. A small bit of heat may be needed.
  3. Before going any further - check that it clears the things inside the side; otherwise open the head further.
  4. It should now come out very easily; with no friction. If you feel friction - go back to the previous point and check again.
  5. Once the bolt is out - put the largest, long imbus/hex key into the head and tighen it.
  6. Then unscrew the head counter-clockwise (i.e. normal direction). This may take a small tap by a rubber/nylon mallet - it is kinetic energy you are trying to transfer (as opposed to static pressure you used for the torx 15.).

You can now either replace the head or take it apart from the back and re-align/de-burr the claws.

NOTE: The Torx is a TX15; not a TTX15 (with the hole). For strength reasons you may want to use the right one - though know that if you are applying more than 5 N-meter - you are probably overdoing/damaging something.

Parts

  1. Special bolt: N092854 (around 10 euro, excluding shipping)
  2. Keyless chuck: N485661 (1~13mm drill chuck electric chuck quick-release chuck) (around 50-60 euro including shipping)

Actual tread is an inside, right-handed, 1/2-20UNF in the chuck. So the drill has an axis sticking out that is crewed into the chuck.

The special bolts are 1/4-28UNF, left-handed and of a very high/odd grade (i.e. above 12.9). With a taper in the head: https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B0CH1MXXV9

History

  1. Set 1 bought by the space mid 2015
  2. Head replaced december 2018
  3. 1 new and 4 second-hand extra heads donated (dirkx)
  4. Replacement drill bought
  5. Head replaced 19 June 2020
  6. Set 2 bought by the space mid 2020
  7. Head replaced on the old drill 18/2/2021
  8. New head ordered Nov 2023, middle drill currently missing, last donated head fitted to machine
  9. Both heads replaced by higher end type; bolts replaced; one spare bolt in cabinet (27/11/2023)