Hembrug DrillPress BoorKolom PillarDrill: verschil tussen versies

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(48 tussenliggende versies door 2 gebruikers niet weergegeven)
Regel 1: Regel 1:
{{SafetyCat4}} {{NoiseCat2}}
+
#REDIRECT [[Arboga_GM_2508_Geared_Head_Drill_Press_Pillar_Drill]]
 +
Deze machine staat niet meer op de Space. Moet tzt verwijderd worden.
  
[[Category:Metal]][[Category:SafetySheet]][[Category:Tool]][[Category:Wood]]
+
{{Sjabloon:OldPage}}<br>
 +
[[Bestand:Hemburg-3.jpg| 200px]]
 +
[[Bestand:Hemburg-4.jpg| 200px]]
  
[[Bestand:drill-press-safety-sheet.png|right|400px|safety sheet drill press]]
+
[[Bestand:Hembrug-safety-sheet.png|miniatuur]]
 +
{{SafetyCat3}}{{NoiseCat2}}[[Category:Metal]][[Category:SafetySheet]][[Category:Tool]][[Category:Wood]]
  
Page about the changes/setup of the Hembrug pillar dril.
+
 
 +
<div style="margin:12px; padding:12px; border:4px solid red; max-width:max-content">
 +
Beware that unlike the [[Drill press / boorkolom|small and lighter version in the woodarea]]
 +
<br />
 +
- this machine will '''NOT''' stop if something jams or gets stuck -
 +
<br />
 +
but typically ruin either the drill, your work or,
 +
<br />
 +
if you are foolish enough to hold it by hand, your hand or other nearby body parts.
 +
<br />
 +
For this reason - '''the use of (strong) gloves is forbidden.'''  <br />'''And you probably want to use the machine clamps or the [[Opspanset / T-Slot Clamping Kit]]'''.
 +
</div>
 +
 
 +
== Boor-kolom, Drill press, Pillar drill ==
 +
with adjustable speed (the small wheel on the left of the machine). This is the heavier, 3-phase (Krachtstroom), version in the metal shop; there is a [[Drill press / boorkolom|lighter version in the woodarea]].
 +
 
 +
Cutting wood in the metal area is fine. Cutting metal in the wood area is frowned upon. If you do so - de-grease the machine/plateau post use !
 +
 
 +
See also: [[Wood Drills]], [[HSS Drills]], [[Large HSS drills]] and [[Spade drills]].
 +
 
 +
== Controls ==
 +
 
 +
[[Bestand:Hemburg-5.jpg| 200px]]
 +
[[Bestand:Hemburg-6.jpg| 200px]]
  
  
Regel 18: Regel 45:
 
# Handle to lock vertical travel.
 
# Handle to lock vertical travel.
 
# Keyless drill chuck (taper not yet measures)
 
# Keyless drill chuck (taper not yet measures)
 +
 +
 +
== Safety ==
 +
 +
The drill press is classed as a normal, somewhat dangerous machine: instructions is mandatory & in person. It will take 5 to 15 minutes if you've used a drill press before.
 +
 +
It can be used any hours -- but be kind to our neighbours.
 +
 +
Beware that unlike the small and [Drill press / boorkolom|lighter version in the woodarea]] -- this machine will '''NOT''' stop if something gets stuck - but typically ruin either the drill, your work or, if you are foolish enough to hold it by hand, your hand or other nearby body parts.
 +
 +
Use of safety glasses will generally be needed. '''The use of gloves is forbidden.''' It increases the risk of your glove (and with it your finger) getting twisted around the drill/rotating head.
 +
 +
Its main risks are flying sharp bits and body parts getting caught in something rotating or your workpiece rotating/spinning.
 +
 +
So clamp things well.
 +
 +
== Changing speed ==
 +
 +
Always use the right speed; you get a nice round hole, it goes faster and the drills stay sharp. See [[Boorsnelheid RPM drilling speed]] for the speeds. See also [[SnijOlie BoorOlie CuttingOil]]
 +
 +
Speed is adjusted with the wheel.
 +
 +
[[Bestand:Hemburg-2.jpg| 200px]]
 +
 +
<div style="margin:12px; padding:12px; border:4px solid red; max-width:max-content">
 +
Only adjust the speed when the machine is running !
 +
</div>
 +
 +
[[Bestand:Hemburg-1.jpg|200px]]
 +
 +
=== Failing speed adjustment ===
 +
 +
If the speed adjustment seems to fail (it is too fast, or the 'slowest' point is not at the end of the wheel) then be sure to check the setscrew.
 +
 +
[[Bestand:Hembrug-setscrew-at.jpg|500px]]
 +
[[Bestand:Hembrug-setscrew.jpg|500px]]
 +
 +
Some tech details on the inner workings. The stelschroef makes sure the piece with the spie does not rotate, ensuring vertical motion of the multi-threaded nut during the rotation of the dial (schijf met getallen).
 +
 +
When the stelschroef fails and this piece slips, turning the dial (to decrease rpm) only turns this piece, keeping the multi-threaded nut in its lowest position (V-cones farthest apart, highest rpm always).
 +
 +
The catch is that you can't really tighten it: if you do, it moves the piece off-axis, enough to jam the motion of the multi-threaded nut. Should it become loose again - then a longer screw and a counter-nut on it would be the way to go.
 +
 +
Alex is the expert here.
 +
 +
== Speeds and oil (metal) ==
 +
 +
There is a chart of speeds on the wall -- or see http://engineering.ucdavis.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/lathespeeds.pdf
 +
 +
The larger your drill diameter - the lower the speed (Alu faster than steel faster than stainlesssteel/rvs); but limit countersinks/counterbores/stepdrills and similar `specials' to 200-300RPM.
 +
 +
There are three types of oil next to the machine. For most metals use the green oil.
 +
 +
Use the non-ferro oil if you find that the green oil stains your aluminiun/non-ferro metal (this is quite rare).
 +
 +
The third oil is generally not suitable to use with this drill press.
  
 
== Safety Relay, Stop button ==  
 
== Safety Relay, Stop button ==  
Regel 28: Regel 111:
  
 
== Motor ==
 
== Motor ==
 
+
[[Bestand:Signal-2023-01-23-141255 002.jpg|miniatuur]]
 
Likely [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dahlander_pole_changing_motor dalander switched]]. We do not have a NC on the 'off' to prevent start when on.
 
Likely [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dahlander_pole_changing_motor dalander switched]]. We do not have a NC on the 'off' to prevent start when on.
  
 
[[Bestand:Dalander1.png|400px]]
 
[[Bestand:Dalander1.png|400px]]
 
[[Bestand:Dalander2.png|400px]]
 
[[Bestand:Dalander2.png|400px]]
 +
 +
== Repairs / taking apart ==
 +
 +
In order to get to the speed/lift table - take off the spring-mechanism, remove the 4 bolts of the main arm; remove a small set screw in the top vario disk front (reachable through a half-moon cutout in the main arm on the right hand size) and very vertically lift the arm and front axis out. It needs to be very vertical - otherwise it jams.
 +
 +
=== Removing the chuck ===
 +
 +
Use an extra flat #22 spanner to rotate the nut above the chuck 'down' -- its flange is designed to push the chuck off.
 +
 +
Alternatively use jacobson removal wedges. In that case be careful that you do not damage the thread of above pusher nut.
 +
 +
=== Removing Spindle/spline ===
 +
 +
# Remove the set screw mid-under the pinion-handle - i.e. the vertical one.
 +
# Remove the spring cap on the left
 +
# Pull the 'nut' off the axis on in the spring case. It is not really a not - it actually slides off while you pull the pinion-axle out to the right.
 +
# Remove the set screw next to the pinion handle - i.e the horizontal one.
 +
# The tube with the rack and the spindle inside it will slide out - as the spline is otherwise not blocked.
 +
 +
=== Removing the spindle itself ===
 +
 +
# Remove 2 setscrews top and botton visible behind the hole and the 'U' shape. They are different sizes - use right tool !
 +
# Rotate the two plates off
 +
# Push the spindle 'down'
 +
# Bearings will slide off/out with relative ease
 +
 +
=== Bearing replacements ===
 +
 +
Top bearing: 17(id)x40(od)x12mm high - 6203-2Z (normal but with staindless steel caps/covers)
 +
 +
Bottom bearing: 17(id)x40(od)x17.5 high - 5203-0Z (double/axial, open).
 +
 +
=== Spindle replacement ==
 +
 +
The main spindle is a Z512-2D (30-40 euro's in Poland/East-germany, but less in China).
 +
 +
== Actions/chores and wishes ==
 +
 +
=== done ===
 +
 +
<strike>
 +
# earth wires connected, new plug
 +
# emergency stop button
 +
# add safety relay
 +
# add current limiter
 +
# paint bits with potential rust
 +
# find/make a handle for the handwheel
 +
# mount the hight adjuster
 +
# Lift onto table and fix with M10 bolts. (2021-10-27)
 +
# print and laminate safety card
 +
# check rotation & fix in wall socket (as the other one was correct) (2021-10-27)
 +
# document machine
 +
# document V-belt/snaar
 +
# figure out if it is an MT2
 +
# figure out how/if/where to oil it
 +
# M10 blind bolts; shorter than current (2x)
 +
# M10 blind bolts; shorter than current (1x)
 +
# repair the hight adjuster  (2021-10-27)
 +
# make a knob to fix the top plate
 +
# make replacement disk for hight adjuster.
 +
# Add VFM torque control for low speed (15rpm)
 +
</strike>
 +
 +
=== to buy ===
 +
 +
na
 +
 +
=== to do ===
 +
 +
# fix relay mount plate
 +
 +
=== wishes ===
 +
 +
# add water coolant (requires a new power cable with an 'N'; the relay has spare pole).
 +
# add a light
 +
# find a Dahlander switch with an extra NC for the safety relay
 +
# find a plate with 0,1,2 rather than current 0,1,2,3 or repair the old one.
 +
# (weld)fill holes in mounting plate
 +
# add a RPM meter
 +
 +
== Location and ownership ==
 +
 +
Located in the metal shop. On loan; [[Gebruiker:DirkWillem|Dirk-Willem van Gulik]][[Category:OnLoan]]
 +
 +
== History ==
 +
 +
{| class="wikitable"
 +
|-
 +
! Date !! Descriptiopn
 +
|-
 +
| Q3/2021 || On loan; safety relay and button added.
 +
|}

Huidige versie van 9 jan 2024 om 21:10

Deze machine staat niet meer op de Space. Moet tzt verwijderd worden.

This Wiki Page needs revision: The makerspace has grown / changed considerably since it was last edited. Please remove this tag or this page once the page is up to date or obsolete, but do not remove it too soon.


Hemburg-3.jpg Hemburg-4.jpg

Hembrug-safety-sheet.png

This equipment is safety category 3:

  • Mandatory, in person, instructions.
  • Make sure you read the Wiki before asking.

This equipment is Noise Category 2:
Can be used at all hours, but in moderation.
Be considerate; if you feel you need to wear ear protection,
then only use the tool between 07:00 and 19:00.


Beware that unlike the small and lighter version in the woodarea
- this machine will NOT stop if something jams or gets stuck -
but typically ruin either the drill, your work or,
if you are foolish enough to hold it by hand, your hand or other nearby body parts.
For this reason - the use of (strong) gloves is forbidden.
And you probably want to use the machine clamps or the Opspanset / T-Slot Clamping Kit.

Boor-kolom, Drill press, Pillar drill

with adjustable speed (the small wheel on the left of the machine). This is the heavier, 3-phase (Krachtstroom), version in the metal shop; there is a lighter version in the woodarea.

Cutting wood in the metal area is fine. Cutting metal in the wood area is frowned upon. If you do so - de-grease the machine/plateau post use !

See also: Wood Drills, HSS Drills, Large HSS drills and Spade drills.

Controls

Hemburg-5.jpg Hemburg-6.jpg


  1. Handle for up/down of the head. Clockwise for down; Counterclockwise for up. Do not forget to (un)tighten handle 9.
  2. Handle for the speed.
  3. Hole through which you can see the current speed. The lower number is for "speed I" the high number for 'speed 2" (they are exactly 2x apart).
  4. Speed switch;; 0 is off, 1 is low speed and 2 is twice as fast.
  5. The normal on/off switches; prevents the machine from switching on spontaneously after a power failure -and- enforce a current limit/emergency stop.
  6. Emergency button. Do not use as an on-off button !
  7. Limiters for the travel
  8. Small scale; which you can adjust to see the travel in mm.
  9. Handle to lock vertical travel.
  10. Keyless drill chuck (taper not yet measures)


Safety

The drill press is classed as a normal, somewhat dangerous machine: instructions is mandatory & in person. It will take 5 to 15 minutes if you've used a drill press before.

It can be used any hours -- but be kind to our neighbours.

Beware that unlike the small and [Drill press / boorkolom|lighter version in the woodarea]] -- this machine will NOT stop if something gets stuck - but typically ruin either the drill, your work or, if you are foolish enough to hold it by hand, your hand or other nearby body parts.

Use of safety glasses will generally be needed. The use of gloves is forbidden. It increases the risk of your glove (and with it your finger) getting twisted around the drill/rotating head.

Its main risks are flying sharp bits and body parts getting caught in something rotating or your workpiece rotating/spinning.

So clamp things well.

Changing speed

Always use the right speed; you get a nice round hole, it goes faster and the drills stay sharp. See Boorsnelheid RPM drilling speed for the speeds. See also SnijOlie BoorOlie CuttingOil

Speed is adjusted with the wheel.

Hemburg-2.jpg

Only adjust the speed when the machine is running !

Hemburg-1.jpg

Failing speed adjustment

If the speed adjustment seems to fail (it is too fast, or the 'slowest' point is not at the end of the wheel) then be sure to check the setscrew.

Hembrug-setscrew-at.jpg Hembrug-setscrew.jpg

Some tech details on the inner workings. The stelschroef makes sure the piece with the spie does not rotate, ensuring vertical motion of the multi-threaded nut during the rotation of the dial (schijf met getallen).

When the stelschroef fails and this piece slips, turning the dial (to decrease rpm) only turns this piece, keeping the multi-threaded nut in its lowest position (V-cones farthest apart, highest rpm always).

The catch is that you can't really tighten it: if you do, it moves the piece off-axis, enough to jam the motion of the multi-threaded nut. Should it become loose again - then a longer screw and a counter-nut on it would be the way to go.

Alex is the expert here.

Speeds and oil (metal)

There is a chart of speeds on the wall -- or see http://engineering.ucdavis.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/lathespeeds.pdf

The larger your drill diameter - the lower the speed (Alu faster than steel faster than stainlesssteel/rvs); but limit countersinks/counterbores/stepdrills and similar `specials' to 200-300RPM.

There are three types of oil next to the machine. For most metals use the green oil.

Use the non-ferro oil if you find that the green oil stains your aluminiun/non-ferro metal (this is quite rare).

The third oil is generally not suitable to use with this drill press.

Safety Relay, Stop button

A safety relay was added; with a 4-6 amp current limiters along with an emergency stop button. Normal ground/earth wiring was added.

The current rotary switch does NOT allow for a switch-on block when in the wrong position. We need to find a replacement switch.

300pk

Motor

Signal-2023-01-23-141255 002.jpg

Likely [dalander switched]. We do not have a NC on the 'off' to prevent start when on.

Dalander1.png Dalander2.png

Repairs / taking apart

In order to get to the speed/lift table - take off the spring-mechanism, remove the 4 bolts of the main arm; remove a small set screw in the top vario disk front (reachable through a half-moon cutout in the main arm on the right hand size) and very vertically lift the arm and front axis out. It needs to be very vertical - otherwise it jams.

Removing the chuck

Use an extra flat #22 spanner to rotate the nut above the chuck 'down' -- its flange is designed to push the chuck off.

Alternatively use jacobson removal wedges. In that case be careful that you do not damage the thread of above pusher nut.

Removing Spindle/spline

  1. Remove the set screw mid-under the pinion-handle - i.e. the vertical one.
  2. Remove the spring cap on the left
  3. Pull the 'nut' off the axis on in the spring case. It is not really a not - it actually slides off while you pull the pinion-axle out to the right.
  4. Remove the set screw next to the pinion handle - i.e the horizontal one.
  5. The tube with the rack and the spindle inside it will slide out - as the spline is otherwise not blocked.

Removing the spindle itself

  1. Remove 2 setscrews top and botton visible behind the hole and the 'U' shape. They are different sizes - use right tool !
  2. Rotate the two plates off
  3. Push the spindle 'down'
  4. Bearings will slide off/out with relative ease

Bearing replacements

Top bearing: 17(id)x40(od)x12mm high - 6203-2Z (normal but with staindless steel caps/covers)

Bottom bearing: 17(id)x40(od)x17.5 high - 5203-0Z (double/axial, open).

= Spindle replacement

The main spindle is a Z512-2D (30-40 euro's in Poland/East-germany, but less in China).

Actions/chores and wishes

done

  1. earth wires connected, new plug
  2. emergency stop button
  3. add safety relay
  4. add current limiter
  5. paint bits with potential rust
  6. find/make a handle for the handwheel
  7. mount the hight adjuster
  8. Lift onto table and fix with M10 bolts. (2021-10-27)
  9. print and laminate safety card
  10. check rotation & fix in wall socket (as the other one was correct) (2021-10-27)
  11. document machine
  12. document V-belt/snaar
  13. figure out if it is an MT2
  14. figure out how/if/where to oil it
  15. M10 blind bolts; shorter than current (2x)
  16. M10 blind bolts; shorter than current (1x)
  17. repair the hight adjuster (2021-10-27)
  18. make a knob to fix the top plate
  19. make replacement disk for hight adjuster.
  20. Add VFM torque control for low speed (15rpm)

to buy

na

to do

  1. fix relay mount plate

wishes

  1. add water coolant (requires a new power cable with an 'N'; the relay has spare pole).
  2. add a light
  3. find a Dahlander switch with an extra NC for the safety relay
  4. find a plate with 0,1,2 rather than current 0,1,2,3 or repair the old one.
  5. (weld)fill holes in mounting plate
  6. add a RPM meter

Location and ownership

Located in the metal shop. On loan; Dirk-Willem van Gulik

History

Date Descriptiopn
Q3/2021 On loan; safety relay and button added.