Hembrug DrillPress BoorKolom PillarDrill
Boor-kolom, Drill press, Pillar drill
with adjustable speed (the small wheel on the left of the machine). This is the heavier, 3-phase (Krachtstroom), version in the metal shop; there is a lighter version in the woodarea.
Cutting wood in the metal area is fine. Cutting metal in the wood area is frowned upon. If you do so - de-grease the machine/plateau post use !
- Handle for up/down of the head. Clockwise for down; Counterclockwise for up. Do not forget to (un)tighten handle 9.
- Handle for the speed.
- Hole through which you can see the current speed. The lower number is for "speed I" the high number for 'speed 2" (they are exactly 2x apart).
- Speed switch;; 0 is off, 1 is low speed and 2 is twice as fast.
- The normal on/off switches; prevents the machine from switching on spontaneously after a power failure -and- enforce a current limit/emergency stop.
- Emergency button. Do not use as an on-off button !
- Limiters for the travel
- Small scale; which you can adjust to see the travel in mm.
- Handle to lock vertical travel.
- Keyless drill chuck (taper not yet measures)
The drill press is classed as a normal, somewhat dangerous machine: instructions is mandatory & in person. It will take 5 to 15 minutes if you've used a drill press before.
It can be used any hours -- but be kind to our neighbours.
Beware that unlike the small and [Drill press / boorkolom|lighter version in the woodarea]] -- this machine will NOT stop if something gets stuck - but typically ruin either the drill, your work or, if you are foolish enough to hold it by hand, your hand or other nearby body parts.
Use of safety glasses will generally be needed. The use of gloves is forbidden. It increases the risk of your glove (and with it your finger) getting twisted around the drill/rotating head.
Its main risks are flying sharp bits and body parts getting caught in something rotating or your workpiece rotating/spinning.
So clamp things well.
Speed is adjusted with the wheel.
Failing speed adjustment
If the speed adjustment seems to fail (it is too fast, or the 'slowest' point is not at the end of the wheel) then be sure to check the setscrew.
Some tech details on the inner workings. The stelschroef makes sure the piece with the spie does not rotate, ensuring vertical motion of the multi-threaded nut during the rotation of the dial (schijf met getallen).
When the stelschroef fails and this piece slips, turning the dial (to decrease rpm) only turns this piece, keeping the multi-threaded nut in its lowest position (V-cones farthest apart, highest rpm always).
The catch is that you can't really tighten it: if you do, it moves the piece off-axis, enough to jam the motion of the multi-threaded nut. Should it become loose again - then a longer screw and a counter-nut on it would be the way to go.
Alex is the expert here.
Speeds and oil (metal)
There is a chart of speeds on the wall -- or see http://engineering.ucdavis.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/lathespeeds.pdf
The larger your drill diameter - the lower the speed (Alu faster than steel faster than stainlesssteel/rvs); but limit countersinks/counterbores/stepdrills and similar `specials' to 200-300RPM.
There are three types of oil next to the machine. For most metals use the green oil.
Use the non-ferro oil if you find that the green oil stains your aluminiun/non-ferro metal (this is quite rare).
The third oil is generally not suitable to use with this drill press.
A safety relay was added; with a 4-6 amp current limiters along with an emergency stop button. Normal ground/earth wiring was added.
The current rotary switch does NOT allow for a switch-on block when in the wrong position. We need to find a replacement switch.
Likely [dalander switched]. We do not have a NC on the 'off' to prevent start when on.
Repairs / taking apart
In order to get to the speed/lift table - take off the spring-mechanism, remove the 4 bolts of the main arm; remove a small set screw in the top vario disk front (reachable through a half-moon cutout in the main arm on the right hand size) and very vertically lift the arm and front axis out. It needs to be very vertical - otherwise it jams.
Actions/chores and wishes
- earth wires connected, new plug
- emergency stop button
- add safety relay
- add current limiter
- paint bits with potential rust
# M10 blind bolts; shorter than current (2x)
# M10 blind bolts; shorter than current (1x)
- fix relay mount plate
repair the hight adjuster(2021-10-27)
- make a knob to fix the top plate
- find/make a handle for the handwheel
- mount the hight adjuster
Lift onto table and fix with M10 bolts.(2021-10-27)
- print and laminate safety card
(2021-10-27)check rotation & fix in wall socket (as the other one was correct).(2021-10-27)
- document machine
- document V-belt/snaar
- figure out if it is an MT2
- figure out how/if/where to oil it
- add water coolant (requires a new power cable with an 'N'; the relay has spare pole).
- add a light
- make replacement disk for hight adjuster.
- find a Dahlander switch with an extra NC for the safety relay
- find a plate with 0,1,2 rather than current 0,1,2,3 or repair the old one.
- (weld)fill holes in mounting plate
- add a RPM meter
Location and ownership
Located in the metal shop. On loan; Dirk-Willem van Gulik
|Q3/2021||On loan; safety relay and button added.|