DeWalt Handdrill

This equipment is safety category 6: Other equipment with no limits.

This equipment is Noise Category 2:
Can be used at all hours, but in moderation.
Be considerate; if you feel you need to wear ear protection,
then only use the tool between 07:00 and 19:00.

To drill holes.

The drill has a clutch, so can be used to drive in screws if you must. But you probably want to use the DeWalt Impact drill/electric screwdriver - it is designed for this and gives you more control.

If you do want to use the drill - then make sure that you

1. set the torque limiter to some sensible value (certainly not on 'drill'!)
2. you apply enough pressure on the screw to keep it from stripping.
3. Also make sure you apply the pressure straight (i.e. not through the handle - but on the back) - that helps a lot.

However - if you need to apply a lot of pressure - then use the DeWalt Impact drill/electric screwdriver -- as you end up ruining the drill if you do not. Seriously. You ruin it & a new head is about 60 Euro's. And after the second head or so - the machine is total loss.

We currently have two:

1. One in the wood section - which has a slightly wobbly head due to it being used for screws.
2. One in the cupboard in the metal section - which is bought especially to keep in a good state - and it should ONLY be used for drilling.

Location

Woodworkshop - in a holder on the wall near the workbench left.

Metwalworkshop - in the cupboard - not to be uses for anything but drilling. No screwing. This keeps it in a state suitable for things like small holes & tapping.

Disassembling the keyless chuck

If someone was pigheaded enough to use the drill as a screwdriver (rather than its rather excelent and specially made for this tool the DeWalt Impact drill/electric screwdriver -- you will end up with a stuck keyless chuck at some point.

In that case you need to replace it. This is done by

1. Open the head all the way (seriously - all the way -- it is a very tight fit for the bold to come out; and if you unscrew the bolt while the head is in the way - something plastic snaps inside.
2. Insert a torx 15 bit into the head and unscrew it CLOCKWISE -- i.e. it is a left-handed, reverse tread just one half-turn. No tapping/hammering - pure gentle static pressure. A small bit of heat may be needed.
3. Before going any further - check that it clears the things inside the side; otherwise open the head further.
4. It should now come out very easily; with no friction. If you feel friction - go back to the previous point and check again.
5. Once the bolt is out - put the largest, long imbus/hex key into the head and tighen it.
6. Then unscrew the head counter-clockwise (i.e. normal direction). This may take a small tap by a rubber/nylon mallet (as opposed to static pressure).

You can now either replace the head or take it apart from the back and re-align/de-burr the claws.

Parts

1. Special bolt: N092854 (around 10 euro, excluding shipping)
2. Keyless chuck: N485661 (1~13mm drill chuck electric chuck quick-release chuck) (around 50-60 euro including shipping)

Actual tread is 1/2-20UNF. The special bolts are: https://www.amazon.nl/dp/B0CH1MXXV9

History

1. Set 1 bought by the space mid 2015
2. Head replaced december 2018
3. 1 new and 4 second-hand extra heads donated (dirkx)
4. Replacement drill bought
5. Head replaced 19 June 2020
6. Set 2 bought by the space mid 2020
7. Head replaced on the old drill 18/2/2021
8. New head ordered Nov 2023, middle drill currently missing, last donated head fitted to machine
9. Both heads replaced by higher end type; bolts replaced; one spare bolt in cabinet (27/11/2023)