Difference between revisions of "Hembrug DrillPress BoorKolom PillarDrill"

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{{SafetyCat4}} {{NoiseCat2}}[[Category:Metal]][[Category:SafetySheet]][[Category:Tool]][[Category:Wood]]
 
  
Boor-kolum, Drill press with adjustable speed (the small wheel on the left of the machine). This is the heavier, 3-phase (Krachtstroom), version in the metal shop; there is a [[Drill press / boorkolom|lighter version in the woodarea]].
+
[[Bestand:Hemburg-3.jpg| 200px]]
 +
[[Bestand:Hemburg-4.jpg| 200px]]
 +
 
 +
[[Bestand:Hembrug-safety-sheet.png|miniatuur]]
 +
{{SafetyCat3}}{{NoiseCat2}}[[Category:Metal]][[Category:SafetySheet]][[Category:Tool]][[Category:Wood]]
 +
 
  
 
<div style="margin:12px; padding:12px; border:4px solid red; max-width:max-content">
 
<div style="margin:12px; padding:12px; border:4px solid red; max-width:max-content">
Beware that unlike the small and [Drill press / boorkolom|lighter version in the woodarea]] -- this machine will '''NOT''' stop if something jams or gets stuck - but typically ruin either the drill, your work or, if you are foolish enough to hold it by hand, your hand or other nearby body parts.
+
Beware that unlike the [[Drill press / boorkolom|small and lighter version in the woodarea]]  
 
+
<br />
For this reason - the use of (strong) gloves is forbidden.  '''And you probably want to use the machine clamps or the [[Opspanset / T-Slot Clamping Kit]]'''.
+
- this machine will '''NOT''' stop if something jams or gets stuck -
 +
<br />
 +
but typically ruin either the drill, your work or,  
 +
<br />
 +
if you are foolish enough to hold it by hand, your hand or other nearby body parts.
 +
<br />
 +
For this reason - '''the use of (strong) gloves is forbidden.''' <br />'''And you probably want to use the machine clamps or the [[Opspanset / T-Slot Clamping Kit]]'''.
 
</div>
 
</div>
  
 +
== Boor-kolom, Drill press, Pillar drill ==
 +
with adjustable speed (the small wheel on the left of the machine). This is the heavier, 3-phase (Krachtstroom), version in the metal shop; there is a [[Drill press / boorkolom|lighter version in the woodarea]].
  
 
Cutting wood in the metal area is fine. Cutting metal in the wood area is frowned upon. If you do so - de-grease the machine/plateau post use !
 
Cutting wood in the metal area is fine. Cutting metal in the wood area is frowned upon. If you do so - de-grease the machine/plateau post use !
Line 15: Line 27:
  
 
== Controls ==
 
== Controls ==
 +
 +
[[Bestand:Hemburg-5.jpg| 200px]]
 +
[[Bestand:Hemburg-6.jpg| 200px]]
 +
  
 
# Handle for up/down of the head. Clockwise for down; Counterclockwise for up. Do not forget to (un)tighten handle 9.
 
# Handle for up/down of the head. Clockwise for down; Counterclockwise for up. Do not forget to (un)tighten handle 9.
Line 30: Line 46:
 
== Safety ==
 
== Safety ==
  
The drill press is classed as a normal, somewhat dangerous machine: instructions strongly advised but not mandatory. It can be used any hours -- but be kind to our neighbours.
+
The drill press is classed as a normal, somewhat dangerous machine: instructions is mandatory & in person. It will take 5 to 15 minutes if you've used a drill press before.
 +
 +
It can be used any hours -- but be kind to our neighbours.
  
Beware that unlike the small and [Drill press / boorkolom|lighter version in the woodarea]] -- this machine will '''NOT''' stop if something gets stick - but typically ruin either the drill, your work or, if you are foolish enough to hold it by hand, your hand or other nearby body parts.
+
Beware that unlike the small and [Drill press / boorkolom|lighter version in the woodarea]] -- this machine will '''NOT''' stop if something gets stuck - but typically ruin either the drill, your work or, if you are foolish enough to hold it by hand, your hand or other nearby body parts.
  
 
Use of safety glasses will generally be needed. '''The use of gloves is forbidden.''' It increases the risk of your glove (and with it your finger) getting twisted around the drill/rotating head.
 
Use of safety glasses will generally be needed. '''The use of gloves is forbidden.''' It increases the risk of your glove (and with it your finger) getting twisted around the drill/rotating head.
Line 44: Line 62:
 
Always use the right speed; you get a nice round hole, it goes faster and the drills stay sharp. See [[Boorsnelheid RPM drilling speed]] for the speeds. See also [[SnijOlie BoorOlie CuttingOil]]
 
Always use the right speed; you get a nice round hole, it goes faster and the drills stay sharp. See [[Boorsnelheid RPM drilling speed]] for the speeds. See also [[SnijOlie BoorOlie CuttingOil]]
  
Speed is adjusted with the wheel.
+
Speed is adjusted with the wheel.
 +
 
 +
[[Bestand:Hemburg-2.jpg| 200px]]
 +
 
 +
<div style="margin:12px; padding:12px; border:4px solid red; max-width:max-content">
 +
Only adjust the speed when the machine is running !
 +
</div>
 +
 
 +
[[Bestand:Hemburg-1.jpg|200px]]
 +
 
 +
=== Failing speed adjustment ===
 +
 
 +
If the speed adjustment seems to fail (it is too fast, or the 'slowest' point is not at the end of the wheel) then be sure to check the setscrew.
 +
 
 +
[[Bestand:Hembrug-setscrew-at.jpg|500px]]
 +
[[Bestand:Hembrug-setscrew.jpg|500px]]
 +
 
 +
Some tech details on the inner workings. The stelschroef makes sure the piece with the spie does not rotate, ensuring vertical motion of the multi-threaded nut during the rotation of the dial (schijf met getallen).
 +
 
 +
When the stelschroef fails and this piece slips, turning the dial (to decrease rpm) only turns this piece, keeping the multi-threaded nut in its lowest position (V-cones farthest apart, highest rpm always).
 +
 
 +
The catch is that you can't really tighten it: if you do, it moves the piece off-axis, enough to jam the motion of the multi-threaded nut. Should it become loose again - then a longer screw and a counter-nut on it would be the way to go.
 +
 
 +
Alex is the expert here.
  
 
== Speeds and oil (metal) ==
 
== Speeds and oil (metal) ==
Line 72: Line 113:
 
[[Bestand:Dalander1.png|400px]]
 
[[Bestand:Dalander1.png|400px]]
 
[[Bestand:Dalander2.png|400px]]
 
[[Bestand:Dalander2.png|400px]]
 +
 +
== Repairs / taking apart ==
 +
 +
In order to get to the speed/lift table - take off the spring-mechanism, remove the 4 bolts of the main arm; remove a small set screw in the top vario disk front (reachable through a half-moon cutout in the main arm on the right hand size) and very vertically lift the arm and front axis out. It needs to be very vertical - otherwise it jams.
 +
 +
== Actions/chores and wishes ==
 +
 +
=== done ===
 +
 +
# earth wires connected, new plug
 +
# emergency stop button
 +
# add safety relay
 +
# add current limiter
 +
# paint bits with potential rust
 +
 +
=== to buy ===
 +
 +
<strike># M10 blind bolts; shorter than current (2x)</strike>
 +
<strike># M10 blind bolts; shorter than current (1x)</strike>
 +
 +
=== to do ===
 +
 +
# fix relay mount plate
 +
# <strike>repair the hight adjuster</strike> (2021-10-27)
 +
# make a knob to fix the top plate
 +
# find/make a handle for the handwheel
 +
# mount the hight adjuster
 +
# <strike>Lift onto table and fix with M10 bolts.</strike> (2021-10-27)
 +
# print and laminate safety card
 +
# <strike> (2021-10-27)check rotation & fix in wall socket (as the other one was correct).</strike> (2021-10-27)
 +
# document machine
 +
# document V-belt/snaar
 +
# figure out if it is an MT2
 +
# figure out how/if/where to oil it
 +
 +
=== wishes ===
 +
 +
# add water coolant (requires a new power cable with an 'N'; the relay has spare pole).
 +
# add a light
 +
# make replacement disk for hight adjuster.
 +
# find a Dahlander switch with an extra NC for the safety relay
 +
# find a plate with 0,1,2 rather than current 0,1,2,3 or repair the old one.
 +
# (weld)fill holes in mounting plate
 +
# add a RPM meter
  
 
== Location and ownership ==
 
== Location and ownership ==

Revision as of 17:24, 4 April 2022

Hemburg-3.jpg Hemburg-4.jpg

Hembrug-safety-sheet.png

This equipment is safety category 3:

  • Mandatory, in person, instructions.
  • Make sure you read the Wiki before asking.

This equipment is Noise Category 2:
Can be used at all hours, but in moderation.
Be considerate; if you feel you need to wear ear protection,
then only use the tool between 07:00 and 19:00.


Beware that unlike the small and lighter version in the woodarea
- this machine will NOT stop if something jams or gets stuck -
but typically ruin either the drill, your work or,
if you are foolish enough to hold it by hand, your hand or other nearby body parts.
For this reason - the use of (strong) gloves is forbidden.
And you probably want to use the machine clamps or the Opspanset / T-Slot Clamping Kit.

Boor-kolom, Drill press, Pillar drill

with adjustable speed (the small wheel on the left of the machine). This is the heavier, 3-phase (Krachtstroom), version in the metal shop; there is a lighter version in the woodarea.

Cutting wood in the metal area is fine. Cutting metal in the wood area is frowned upon. If you do so - de-grease the machine/plateau post use !

See also: Wood Drills, HSS Drills, Large HSS drills and Spade drills.

Controls

Hemburg-5.jpg Hemburg-6.jpg


  1. Handle for up/down of the head. Clockwise for down; Counterclockwise for up. Do not forget to (un)tighten handle 9.
  2. Handle for the speed.
  3. Hole through which you can see the current speed. The lower number is for "speed I" the high number for 'speed 2" (they are exactly 2x apart).
  4. Speed switch;; 0 is off, 1 is low speed and 2 is twice as fast.
  5. The normal on/off switches; prevents the machine from switching on spontaneously after a power failure -and- enforce a current limit/emergency stop.
  6. Emergency button. Do not use as an on-off button !
  7. Limiters for the travel
  8. Small scale; which you can adjust to see the travel in mm.
  9. Handle to lock vertical travel.
  10. Keyless drill chuck (taper not yet measures)


Safety

The drill press is classed as a normal, somewhat dangerous machine: instructions is mandatory & in person. It will take 5 to 15 minutes if you've used a drill press before.

It can be used any hours -- but be kind to our neighbours.

Beware that unlike the small and [Drill press / boorkolom|lighter version in the woodarea]] -- this machine will NOT stop if something gets stuck - but typically ruin either the drill, your work or, if you are foolish enough to hold it by hand, your hand or other nearby body parts.

Use of safety glasses will generally be needed. The use of gloves is forbidden. It increases the risk of your glove (and with it your finger) getting twisted around the drill/rotating head.

Its main risks are flying sharp bits and body parts getting caught in something rotating or your workpiece rotating/spinning.

So clamp things well.

Changing speed

Always use the right speed; you get a nice round hole, it goes faster and the drills stay sharp. See Boorsnelheid RPM drilling speed for the speeds. See also SnijOlie BoorOlie CuttingOil

Speed is adjusted with the wheel.

Hemburg-2.jpg

Only adjust the speed when the machine is running !

Hemburg-1.jpg

Failing speed adjustment

If the speed adjustment seems to fail (it is too fast, or the 'slowest' point is not at the end of the wheel) then be sure to check the setscrew.

Hembrug-setscrew-at.jpg Hembrug-setscrew.jpg

Some tech details on the inner workings. The stelschroef makes sure the piece with the spie does not rotate, ensuring vertical motion of the multi-threaded nut during the rotation of the dial (schijf met getallen).

When the stelschroef fails and this piece slips, turning the dial (to decrease rpm) only turns this piece, keeping the multi-threaded nut in its lowest position (V-cones farthest apart, highest rpm always).

The catch is that you can't really tighten it: if you do, it moves the piece off-axis, enough to jam the motion of the multi-threaded nut. Should it become loose again - then a longer screw and a counter-nut on it would be the way to go.

Alex is the expert here.

Speeds and oil (metal)

There is a chart of speeds on the wall -- or see http://engineering.ucdavis.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/lathespeeds.pdf

The larger your drill diameter - the lower the speed (Alu faster than steel faster than stainlesssteel/rvs); but limit countersinks/counterbores/stepdrills and similar `specials' to 200-300RPM.

There are three types of oil next to the machine. For most metals use the green oil.

Use the non-ferro oil if you find that the green oil stains your aluminiun/non-ferro metal (this is quite rare).

The third oil is generally not suitable to use with this drill press.

Safety Relay, Stop button

A safety relay was added; with a 4-6 amp current limiters along with an emergency stop button. Normal ground/earth wiring was added.

The current rotary switch does NOT allow for a switch-on block when in the wrong position. We need to find a replacement switch.

300pk

Motor

Likely [dalander switched]. We do not have a NC on the 'off' to prevent start when on.

Dalander1.png Dalander2.png

Repairs / taking apart

In order to get to the speed/lift table - take off the spring-mechanism, remove the 4 bolts of the main arm; remove a small set screw in the top vario disk front (reachable through a half-moon cutout in the main arm on the right hand size) and very vertically lift the arm and front axis out. It needs to be very vertical - otherwise it jams.

Actions/chores and wishes

done

  1. earth wires connected, new plug
  2. emergency stop button
  3. add safety relay
  4. add current limiter
  5. paint bits with potential rust

to buy

# M10 blind bolts; shorter than current (2x) # M10 blind bolts; shorter than current (1x)

to do

  1. fix relay mount plate
  2. repair the hight adjuster (2021-10-27)
  3. make a knob to fix the top plate
  4. find/make a handle for the handwheel
  5. mount the hight adjuster
  6. Lift onto table and fix with M10 bolts. (2021-10-27)
  7. print and laminate safety card
  8. (2021-10-27)check rotation & fix in wall socket (as the other one was correct). (2021-10-27)
  9. document machine
  10. document V-belt/snaar
  11. figure out if it is an MT2
  12. figure out how/if/where to oil it

wishes

  1. add water coolant (requires a new power cable with an 'N'; the relay has spare pole).
  2. add a light
  3. make replacement disk for hight adjuster.
  4. find a Dahlander switch with an extra NC for the safety relay
  5. find a plate with 0,1,2 rather than current 0,1,2,3 or repair the old one.
  6. (weld)fill holes in mounting plate
  7. add a RPM meter

Location and ownership

Located in the metal shop. On loan; Dirk-Willem van Gulik

History

Date Descriptiopn
Q3/2021 On loan; safety relay and button added.